Denim Renaissance

Published by theclementina

In fashion, denim takes on a noticeably new direction. This has been a year for denim and it’s certainly not over yet.

Denim Renaissance is about the rebirth of this fabric use in newfound styling, that will showcase its own niche in fashion. Denim has caught my attention over the past few years, as I placed it on the back-burner to watch the upcoming renaissance unravel in the streetwear spotlight. As an aspiring fashion forecaster, I see the denim’s projection to evolve over the next two years to come, from previous travel of my trend scouting onto the fashion capitals’ streets.

Street Captures:

**Key Item:** Retro-blouse (A/W 2017) Womenswear

“The ongoing retro resurgence pushes the girly blouse into must-have territory.” (WGSN)

**Three Animals**– http://highsnobiety.com

Denim is the foundation to the popularization of jeans, a garment made of dungaree cloth that began as folk work clothes, which progressed over the years to become of the most popular causalwear staples in modern society. The denim fabric has made appeal of undistinguished look between classes, genders, and age. Although, once reserved only for men became gender neutral after the 1960s, after the acceptance of women to wear jeans. The word jeans derive from the sailors of Genoa, who wore the cotton corduroy, called either jean or jeane and was manufactured here.

Denim is one of the oldest types of work clothes that were available in the world and it is known for its durability and comfort.

From Workwear to Fashion:

Initially denim was reserved for work clothes, when both durability and comfort were needed. Common uses included overalls made of blue denim, worn by mechanics, miners and painters. Jean fabric was a sturdy fabric, but it did not offer the added benefits of denim, such as that durability and comfort. Common uses included top coats, vests, or short jackets, and fine trousers. Nonetheless, in the 1950’s, the influence of the music industry and film started the trend of using jeans as a fashion statement. During this time, denim was a symbol of youth and rebellion. In the 1970’s, the use of stone-washing technique revolutionized the manufacturing of denim, and people of all ages started wearing denim.

In the 21st century, denim redefines a whole new criteria for its own agenda. Available in a wide variety of styles and colors that were not in existence before. According to the American Fabrics Magazine that stated a few decades ago, a prediction of denim to make a revolutionary impact with its own standpoint in the fashion industry.

“Flare silhouettes and late-1990’s/early-2000’s trends take hold in the women’s markets, driving more daring fits.” (WGSN) **1990’s Skater Flare**

“The classic 501 jeans are opened up to create a 1990’s-style flared skirt. The trend for remaking and retooling vintage garments drives new hybrid styling on jeanswear classics.” (WGSN) Reworked Skirt

In an era of Denim Renaissance, the market moves beyond the one-at-a-time trend pacing. A variety of denim items appear in new cuts, fabrics, and washes as well as a range of novelty details. It’s all about considered twists, on established shapes, as well as novelty styles for statement styling. Also, staple denim items and layering basics remain at the core amongst designer collections and the streetwear advocates. As part of the zeitgeist, the values of hedonism arising enabling enjoyable experiences for our own sake, along with added casual comfort – will be embraced, and open up new areas of relevance for design, in part of our Denim Renaissance.

Levis- “Circles”

Denim Forecast: Spring/Summer 2018

Runway influence:

tomford — **Tom Ford-** S/S 2018 (New York)

lacoste — **Lacoste-** S/S 2018 (New York)

versus versace — **Versus Versace-** S/S 2018 (Milan)

calvin klein — **Calvin Klein-** S/S 2018 (New York)

public school — **Public School-** S/S 2018 (New York)

adam selman — **Adam Selman**– S/S 2018 (New York)

craig green — **Craig Green-** S/S 2018 (London)

caroline herrera — **Caroline Herrera**– S/S 2018 (Milan)

stella mccartney — **Stella McCartney-** S/S 2018 (Paris)

valentino — **Valentino-** S/S 2018 (Paris)

Denim Forecast: Spring/Summer 2018 (MEN)

Key Items & Silhouettes: This season, subtle silhouette re-proportions and simple detail build in longevity, allowing fabric, color or pattern to speak.

utlity vest — **1. Utility Vest:** Denim constructions and polished hardware lend a polished urban edge to classic utility styles.

Utility and mlitary looks are becoming a staple trend for young men’s transitional deliveries. (WGSN)

trucker — **2. Anti-fit Trucker Jacket:** Deconstructed design, skewed seaming, and raglan sleeves or dropped shoulders add interest. (WGSN)

truckerjackets — Truckers in scaled-up and reworked proportions typify the season’s mood for skewed classics.

trucketjacket — Dropped-shoulders on Trucker Jackets for Menwear (S/S 2018)

**3. Tapered Cropped:** True waist fit with volume through the thigh to allow for cinched-up waist styling. Sharp taper to ankle.

The dominance of cropped fits is set to continue, in line with the trend for more relaxed jean fits. (WGSN)

**4. Wide-leg Pant:** Wide-leg silhouettes reworked to have an easy-volume fit and tailored construction, rendered in clean rigid denims.

While wide-leg trousers are still directional in commercial terms, they gain traction on catwalks and streets. (WGSN)

**Inspiration:** Andrea Pompilio Spring/Summer 2017- MILAN

**5. Colored Trucker:** Over-dyed finishes have quietly entered the denim market and look set to inspire S/S 18 design.

Pastel shades are right for young men’s markets, while men look to cleaner color-blocked looks.

**Influence:** Andrea Pompilio S/S 2017- MILAN

**6. Grunge Pant:** With wide-cut fits alongside raw or unpicked hems. Blown-out knee holes with contrast backing for interest

A staple item for festival shop, the shredded jean prevails with extreme destruction. (WGSN)

**7. Fluid Shirt:** Look to simple design features such as a fluid fabric base of silk, rayon or similar with revere collar styling.

Denim Forecast: Spring/Summer 2018 (MEN)

Key Trends:

**1. Freak of Bleach:** Most associated with 1980’s skinheads, high-contrast bleaching makes a comeback for S/S 18, as spearheaded by Gucci. Random placement and graphic splashes create statement looks.

Focus on high-contrast effects with dark grounds and stark white bleach applications.

**Bleach-Splash Pant:** Extreme bleach applications were favored on the catwalks, and jeans are a particularly easy way to sell the trend.

**Pleasures**– http://www.pleasuresnow.com

Graphic applications have a daubed or sponged look with random pattern. Look to laser technologies to create tonal effects.

**2. Punked Moto:** The trend for subculture spins on classics makes the motorcycle jacket relevant for the youth market

Graphic prints and heavy destruction are combined with upsized fit in body and sleeves

Christian Dada- PARIS

The rebellious spirit of punk is contextualized to feel fresh and new. Silver hardware will become a key highlight on denim and moto-style jackets.

**3. Retooled:** The cut-and-paste jeanswear styling seen in womenswear rolls over to men’s denim with retooled garment piecing

The trend for recycling, which has been spearheaded by brands such as **Vetements**, moves into the menswear arena for S/S 18, with brands developing their own takes on refurbished denim.

Jackets and jeans are deconstructed and spliced back together using a clever mix of garment piecing.

**Influence:** Matthias Heiderich- http://www.matthias-heiderich.de

**4. Flight Club:** Aviation-inspired silhouettes infiltrate men’s denim designs, inspiring a range of functional designs that mirror the industry.

**APH**– https://www.aph.com/community/aph-future-of-flight/

” Ergonomic seaming follows the form of flight suits, while bomber jackets combine lightweight materials with details such as reflective taping, and ventilation pockets give everyday essentials a futuristic pragmatism.” (WGSN)

The Fashionisto

**5. Rustic Future:** An emphasis on dégradé and ombré dyes underpins this transitional story, which re-imagines denim staples almost as future artifacts.

**Daniel Arsham-** http://www.danielarsham.com

“Aggressive laundries and 3-D embroideries create items that feel one-of-a-kind. Dyes and washes should feel different from piece-to-piece, reinforcing a sense of exclusivity.” (WGSN)

**Tim Petersen-** http://timpetersenphotography.com

**6. Indigo Wanderer:** Indigo techniques, particularly from Asia, are now seasonal themes for denim.

“The current obsession with everything indigo develops into a fresh nomadic look with an urban attitude. Styling is relaxed and easy, with free-flowing pants and loose shirting.” (WGSN)

A palette of deep blues anchors the look, and hand-dyed techniques or subtle patterns break up complete head-to-toe looks.

**7. Artisan Craft:** Elements of local artisanship have found a new relevance in the global sphere. Craft items, from beer to clothing, are evolving from micro to macro, being adopted on a worldwide level.

Intricate hand-work and flags of all nations convey a desire to ‘go native’ and experience the world through the eyes of a local.

**Sara Rahbar- Influencer:** The work of this Iranian-born, NYC-based artist explores human nature, with her best-known work focusing on the divisive symbolism of flags, which can offer unity or be a call to arms.

**Pigalle-** http://www.pigalle-paris.com

8. Ocean Waves: Patterns and deep blue colors seen in the ocean inspire watery effects on denim and casual cotton shirting.

“Luminous markings are created with bleached-out effects, and painted warp and ikat-effect indigo dyes add depth to color-wovens.” (WGSN)

**Warren Keelan-** http://www.warrenkeelan.com

Denim Forecast: Spring/Summer 2018 (WOMEN)

Key Items & Silhouettes:

**1. Bardot Top:** “Ruffles are a star detail, emerging across product categories from dresses and skirt hemlines through to denim tops.” (WGSN)

**2. Refurbished Skirt:** Reworked vintage looks combine a mix of throwback stonewashed shades in contrasting intensities. Jean seams, side ties and decorative frays add interest.

Influenced by the love for all things 1990’s, denim skirts in re-imagined proportions and hybrid styling are set to impact womenswear.

**Vetements**– http://www.theinspirationprovider.com

**3. Bohemian Blouse:** This blouse drives the message for considered volume, moving on bohemian-inspired looks.

**Fabric & Detail:** Loose, lightweight fabric with folk-style embroidery and trims. Statement balloon sleeves have string fastening to control volume.

**Alice + Olivia-** Pre-Summer 2018 (NEW YORK)

**4. Ruffle Jumper Dress:** Ruffle detail along shoulder straps and pleating at waist. Stonewashed red-cast denim with abrasion accents on edges of ruffles.

“This silhouette provides a subtle take on the commercial pinafore dress.” (WGSN)

**5. Split-hem Jean:** Side-seam splits emerge for jeans across street-style stars and influential fashion brands, making this a detail to watch.

Released side seams or cut-and-sewn splits at the front offer a simple update to core five-pocket shapes.

**6. Punked Denim Vest:** The sleeveless trucker gets a DIY makeover with punk-style patchworks and embellishment.

**Fabric & Detail:** Raw fraying on jacket and patches. Rebellious artwork with statement piece on the rear. Studs adorn collars, shoulders and hems.

**7. Gaucho Pant:** Denim destruction takes on a decorative form on this season’s key jean silhouettes.

**Style Detail:** 4″ frays with heavy swell run along side seams. High-waist fit, with a slight crop.

Denim Forecast: Spring/Summer 2018 (WOMEN)

Key Trends:

**1. Negative Space:** is embraced in designs, exposing modest flashes of skin.

This direction follows the success of cold-shoulder styles and evolves in the form of obscure backless details and zip-through splices.

Francesco Nazardo- http://www.francesconazardo.com

These details work well for jackets, shirts and even jeans.

**Influence- 69 Worldwide:** LA-based design studio 69 Worldwide is one of the labels currently redefining denim standards with its quirky take on basic items. Its ethos is non-gender and non-age specific.

**2. Transformers:** “The trend for up-cycling shows no sign of slowing, with a new wave of designers reworking materials in new and innovative ways.” (WGSN)

**They All Hate Us-** http://www.theyallhateus.com

The concept of creating something entirely new from something old drives new piecing that leaves traces of the original form.

**Hannah Whitaker-** http://www.hwhitaker.com

**3. Carved By Nature:** Materials focus on worn-in textures and traces of natural erosion in this trend.

**Studiopepe Design-** http://www.studiopepedesign.it

The handcrafted designs of **Faustine** **Steinmetz** evoke the feeling of decaying textiles, which belies their artisanal production. Denims are treated with heavy laundries to create barely there color, only lingering through seams and hidden area.

Faustine Steinmetz turned the idea of denim inside out with her first collection, and the intricate hand-loomed pieces she creates from recycled thrift-store jeans are anything but basic.

**Where I Was From-** http://www.whereiwasfrom.com

**4. Heated Pop Block:** A range of punchy over-dye shades emerge alongside classic blues to give denim a vibrant new look for S/S 18.

Ochre, orange and dusty pink tones have a sunburnt and matte appearance. Styles can come as matching sets to make a stronger statement.

**Malte Brandenburg-** http://www.maltebrandenburg.com

In this direction, bold color-blocking and directional silhouettes reflect an anything-goes approach to womenswear.

**5. Embroidered Exotic:** Floral prints are emphasized with decorative needlework, or paired with embellishments in the form of insects, reptiles and exotic plants. Atypical placements replace all-over prints.

**Seb Janiak**– http://www.sebjaniak.com

Streetwear staples and summer jackets feature intricate embroidery to create overgrown, lush motifs for the womenswear market.

**WGSN** Original Image- http://www.wgsn.com

**6. Pattern Subtlety:** Denim becomes more moody and sophisticated with barely there textures and patterns in tonal indigo shades.

**Christopher Kane-** http://www.christopherkane.com

Floral and leaf patterns are reinterpreted as 3-D relief embroideries, while laser-etching creates precise patterns on regular denims.

**7. Supersized 90’s:** Volume and over-sized silhouettes continue to make their mark across denim, with 1990’s references being one of the key sources of inspiration.

**Ader Error-** http://www.adererror.com

Elongated sleeves and dropped shoulders come through as the most significant detail on jackets, while volume in jeans is controlled via folder pleats and cinched waists.

**8. Minimalist Lounge:** Sleep and loungewear staples take on a more futuristic but calm look.

**Maryam Nessar Zadeh-** http://www.mnzstore.com

“Easy-wearing pants, fluid tops, and coordinated sets channel science-fiction uniforms, but also retain a smart look. Outerwear is imbued with lighter tones and lofty fabrics fabrics to create cozy cocoon-like silhouettes.” (WGSN)

**Noritaka Minami-** http://www.noritakaminami.com

**9. Rustic Future:** Minimalism moves away from its clean and pure roots towards simple forms with a rustic finish.

“The raw-edge denim trend remains important, with frayed hems and heavily laundered finishes seen on a range of lightweight fabrics.” (WGSN)

Denim Forecast: Autumn/Winter 2018-19 (MEN)

Key Items & Silhouettes:

**1. Reverse Shearling:** “Teddy and sheepskin coats bring fashion-led style to the denim jacket for mid-winter.” (WGSN)

Shearling linings move to the exterior, leaving denim on plackets, pocket flaps and cuffs. Scaled-up silhouettes create cocooned looks. Mix stonewashed denims and white sherpa for commercial markets.

**MM6-** http://www.maisonmartinmargiela.com

**2. Mandarin Shirt:** “Carrying through Eastern themes and influenced by Yohji Yamamoto’s refined style, Mandarin shirts rise in popularity, counterbalanced by tailored pieces or luxe accessories.” (WGSN)

Mix traditional Western denim shirts with Chinese frog buttons for a hybrid style. Can be upsized and layered over other shirts as a transseasonal item or worn as a regular shirt.

**Black Weirdos-** http://www.supply-toyko.com

**3. Asymmetric Henley Shirt:** The familiarity of this item allows for experimentation, with looks including asymmetric closures and single button stance fronts. Henley placket detailing and collarless styling remain. Decorative back embroideries make a statement.

**Gentry NYC-** http://www.gentrynyc.com

**4. High-waisted Military Pant:** “Directional wider silhouettes continue to gain commercial ground, filtering down season on season. This look plays a part in flipping the focus from looser tops and fitted trousers to the opposite.” (WGSN)

Fabric & Detail: deep pleats accentuate the volume. Wool blends nod to vintage tweed styles, while gabardine keeps it true to standard-issue style.

**5. Pattern Chino:** Following the trend of non-traditional denim styling and the anti-skinny aesthetic, pattern pants become a prominent casual option.

**Fabric & Detail:** statement fabric selections are important, with grunge-inspired checks, contemporary camo and all-over repeat geometrics.

**Fear of God-** http://www.raisedbystyle.com

**6. Self-fabric Belt Pant:** “Belted trousers are one of the pivotal items that illustrate the ongoing trend towards Eastern-influenced looks.” (WGSN)

Straight-leg styles are cropped at the ankle with folded and tie-belt fastenings that tap into a Japanese-inspired aesthetic.

**6. Long-line Trench:** A longer silhouette with a traditional feel combines simple lines with a belted shape.

“Serving up smart urban sophistication, the trench is revived in new proportions for trans-seasonal style.” (WGSN)

Key Trends:

**1. Studied Style:** The old sartorial codes of Ivy League style are modernized in a restrained way. Chino pants are updated in polished raw denim with preppy selvage sign-offs.

**Volker Ketteniss-** http://www.ketteniss.com

Outerwear and shirting have an erudite attitude with clean lines and crisp tailoring, mixed with traditional materials and construction.

**Client Magazine-** http://www.clientmagazine.co.uk

**2. Clean & Compact:** Denim designs are elevated with a sense of refinement, using compact fabrics.

Twill, satin, and denim appear in glossy and matte finishes in a range of neutral shades that add a dignified sophistication to classics and workwear.

**Tim Ronca-** http://www.timronca.tumblr.com

**3. Soul Made:** “A desire for eco-friendly products that sustain both the planet and the economy results in a growing interest in slow-made design. The handwoven denims of British weavers Hollie Ward and Nicole Ajimal, or Japanese sakiori rag weaving, imbue clothes with unique personality.” (WGSN)

These chunky weaves also offer a great update for outerwear.

**Nicole Ajimal-** http://www.instagram.com/nicoleajimal

**4. Country Casual:** The pioneering spirit of American Western style evolves for A/W 18/19 with a more inclusive approach.

Country style picks up influences from global destinations and the diverse cultures of the nation, and designs are no longer constricted to specific ideas of Western style.

**Franz Schumacher-** http://www.franzschumacher.1x.com

**5. Future Tech:** “Streetwear and utility design collide as designers reference heavy-duty hardware details, already seen in collections from Alyx Studio and Prada.” (WGSN)

Pilot harness clips, chunky zippers and carabiner clips make a statement on cleaned-up workwear styles such as utility vests, chore coats and military pants.

**F**cking Young-** http://www.f**ckingyoung.ea

**6. Subverted Americana:** Classic American style is subverted with counterculture influences inspired by dreamers and romantics, incorporating symbols of rebels, beatniks and Elvis enthusiasts.

“The look has a cult appeal, clashing greaser, hot-rod and varsity looks. All-American embellishments and embroideries cement the look.” (WGSN)

**Kristin-Lee Moolman-** http://www.kristinleemoolman.tumblr.com

**You Do You-** http://www.you-do-you.com

**7. Urban Equipment:** “Streetwear evolves by elevating humble pieces from street workwear uniforms, with colors and details inspired by pavements, traffic signs, and road markings.” (WGSN)

High-visibility contrasts feature prominently, giving designs a sense of ultimate functionality.

**8. Military Jacket:** The military themes feed into denim styling with elevated takes on standard-issue uniform jackets.

Fabric & Detail: compact weaves such as satin keep the look clean, while graphic twills or canvas are rugged. Borrow details from mac or safari jacket styles. Twin patch pockets are up scaled to become focus details.

Denim Forecast: Autumn/Winter 2018-19 (WOMEN)

Key Items & Silhouettes:

**1. Cropped Straight-Leg:** Wide-leg silhouettes have a strong presence across editorials and street stylers as the key fashion fit.

Cropped versions represent a more practical sell than full-length shapes.

Consider paneled hem sections, fringed hemlines, feature side-seams and incorporated exposed zippers.

**2. Ruffle Flare:** “Contemporary designers such as Marques Almeida experiment with proportion and form, driving interest in statement hemlines.” (WGSN)

Novel details and adjustments such as elasticated cuffs, frills and ruffles create a new sculptural dimension to the flare.

**Stella McCartney-** http://www.matchesfashion.com

**3. Denim Duster Shirt:** “Thanks to its versatile, easy styling options, the oversize menswear-inspired shirt remains key.” (WGSN)

Elongated sleeves, exaggerated cuffs and dropped shoulders offer a relaxed modern appeal. Play with proportions such as up-sized pockets and hemlines with exaggerated scoops for extra length.

**4. Asymmetrical Skirt:** While skirts have been taking a bit of a backseat lately, asymmetric designs now appear as the newest message.

Folds with self-fabric belts add interest to midi and knee-length shapes that work well across casual to smart options. A-line midi looks have a more directional feel for a contemporary angle on full skirts or fashion styles.

**5. Overall Dress:** “The cross-pollination of genres and the current popularity of hi-lo looks result in fabrics such as silk and satin being increasingly used within a casual context.” (WGSN)

This workwear staple gets a luxurious update with novel cuts and satin, Tencel or raw denim. Classic trouser legs are replaced with flowing dresses or wide-leg culottes.

**6. Bondage Jean:** “The fetish themes of 2018 feed into denim styling with bondage-inspired lacing on jeans.” (WGSN)

**Fabric & Detail: C**entered seams are cut open and woven back together via lace. Keep the look clean with eyelets, or rough with haphazard punk stitches.

**7. Heavy Duty Jacket:** “This season’s industrial utility theme inspires a range of exaggerated hardware details on denim outerwear. Exposed and oversize are key” (WGSN)

**Fabric & detail:** fireman clip fastenings or chunky exposed zippers replace traditional buttons on trucker jackets.

**Assembly New York-** http://www.assemblynewyork.com

Key Trends:

**1. Roll Call:**Retro films such as Dazed & Confused, The Breakfast Club and Fast Times at Ridgemont High are key references, with their focus on geeky girls, art students and slackers. Academic classics such as pinafores, high-rise skirts and blouons set the tone.

Designs for the young women’s market take a more playful approach to collegiate themes.

**Dazed Digital**– http://www.dazeddigital.com

**UNIF**– http://www.urbanoutfitters.com

**2. Sartorial Tweed:** Time-honored tweed is a standout material for The Thinker trend. Inspiration comes from classic menswear tailoring, which is given a feminine twist.

**Light in Water**– http://www.fubiz.net

“Prince of Wales checks and more neppy wool-infused denims are key for this sartorial look, which offers an ideal update for outerwear and bottoms.” (WGSN)

**Rosetta Getty-** http://www.net-a-porter.com

**Maniffattura 1887- (Amsterdam)** http://www.manifattura1887.it

**3. Country Casual:** The pioneering spirit of Western-wear evolves for with a more inclusive approach to Americana.

Country style picks up influences from global destinations and the diverse cultures of the nation. No longer constricted to specific ideas of Western style, women dress to settle uncharted and often non-physical territories.

**Marie Claire-** http://www.wearesodroee.com

**4. Peace Pilgrim:** Ideas of pilgrimage travels, migration and nomadic lifestyles inform this bohemian look.

**Ian Mckell-** http://www.ianmckell.com

**5. Abstract Nature:** Autumn outerwear and jeans feature intricate embroidery of overgrown floral motifs.

**Elizabeth Magill-** http://www.kerlingallery.com

**Oyster Magazine-** http://www.oystermag.com

“Florals are abstracted through hand-drawn forms or via unusual placements on hemlines, sleeves, or out of pockets, as though the motif is growing across the garment.” (WGSN)

**6. Street Smart:** Street influences become smarter for A/W 18/19, and anchored by a youthful attitude.

“This is wear-to-work dressing through a slacker’s lens. Vibrant green casts and velour textures feel more interesting in clean cuts, offering a look that is modern, easy, and comfortable, but also sharp, thanks to concept details.” (WGSN)

**Rejina Pyo-** http://www.rejinapyo.com

**7. Neighborhood Dandy:** Hip-hop nostalgia is combined with relaxed silhouettes and contemporary colors, offering a confident attitude with a nod to B-boy style.

**Low Classic-** http://www.wconcept.co.kr

**Alex Grazioli For Nowness-** http://www.nowness.com

“This trend has an inventive feel, mixing denim styles with nostalgic jaquards or retro leather shapes, and new takes on shearling linings.” (WGSN)

**Jamel Shabazz-** http://www.jamelshabazz.com

**8. New Western:** Classic Western styling takes on a new eclectic identity via clashes of color and exaggerated cow-girl detailing.

“The elaborate designs of East West Musical Instrument Company and Nudie Cohn inspire intricate embellishments and decorative designs. More is more in this statement trend.” (WGSN)

**Stella McCartney-** http://www.vogue.com

**Office Magazine-** http://www.officemagazine.net

**9. Industrial Hardware:** This trend industrial utility theme inspires a range of exaggerated hardware details.

“Fireman clip fastenings appear on trucker jackets, while chunky zippers and pilot clasps replace traditional jean flies and belts.” (WGSN)

Use oversized grommets as a decorative design detail for straps and ties. Expose hardware for statement appeal

**Oh Hey Girl-** http://www.ohheygirlstore.com

**10. Exaggerated Form:** “Designers amp up classic denim designs with out-sized details and outrageously large fits.” (WGSN)

**@kellouhar-** http://www.instagram.com

Deconstructed designs offer a new opportunity to create abstract forms. Raw denim works best to create structured fits.

Elongated sleeves, structured shoulders and skewed fastenings are just a few of the quirky details that make up this direction.

**Aakash Nihalani**– http://www.aakashnihalani.com

Denim Forecast: Spring/Summer 2019 (MEN)

Key Items & Silhouettes:

**1. Smart Skater Pant:** “As designer collections take on a luxurious streetwear edge, young men look to elements of skate style with a sartorial spin.” (WGSN)

Trouser styling mixes with 1990’s wide-cut jean styles; pleats and trouser pockets elevating the look. Volume is key, with wide legs that taper slightly to a cropped ankle.

**Tomorrowland-** http://www.tomorrowland.nyc

**2. Paperbag Short:** A renewed focus on the waist sees paperbag designs heavily influencing the short category.

Gathered, paperbag detailing accentuates the waist with a sack-like form. Self-belt and drawstring fastenings work well for wide-leg shapes.

**Willy Chavarria-** http://www.highsnobiety.com

**3. Lightweight Parka:** Traditionally non-denim items become more important for S/S 19, with indigo takes on silhouettes such as the parka

“Technical advances in denim finishes, such as waterproof coatings, offer function, while wispy nano weights complement slouchy silhouettes and allow form to follow function.” (WGSN)

**4. Baja Stripe Poncho:** The baja poncho, a 1980’s surfwear classic, returns with a more handcrafted appeal.

Brands such as Palm Angels have updated this trend with more earthy tones and modern patterns, a departure from previous contrast-color ponchos.

**High Snobiety**– http://www.highsnobiety.com

**5. Short-Sleeved Block Panel Western:** “The classic Western shirt has always impacted denim. Raf Simons has truly updated this classic with colourful panels and tapered fits.” (WGSN)

For S/S 19, we see this trend continuing in short sleeves and an oversize silhouette.

**Wacko Maria-** http://www.wackomaria.co.jp

**6. Technical Utility Pant:**Performance, functionality and comfort are key elements that will continue to influence workwear designs in coming seasons.

Brands such as Public School offer an updated version with additional cargo pockets and adjustable closures.

**One Stroke-** http://www.onesstroke.com

**Public School**– http://www.eastdane.com

**7. Digital Resort Shirt:** “The resort shirt will continue to impact coming seasons.” (WGSN)

The addition of digital imaging on soft Tencel fabric blends is key to achieving this look.

**@lucid_youths-** http://www.instagram.com/lucid_youths

**8. Updated Field Jacket:**The field jacket continues to impact men’s and women’s workwear and is a must-have statement piece.

“We’ve updated this classic with see-through pocketing which follows the traditional field jacket shape. The addition of printed or embroidered statements help round out this trend.” (WGSN)

**Nobel-** http://www.creativetemplate.net

Key Trends:

**1. American Redefined:** “In light of the current political climate in the US, American brands reconsider the American aesthetic and what it means.” (WGSN)

**Jennifer Bolande, Desert X-** http://www.desertx.org/jennifer-bolande

**Bo Bartlett-** http://bobartlett.com/paintings-/water-series

**69 Denim-** http://www.beautifuldreamers.com

Classic jeanswear is revamped by influential designers and brands such as Raf Simons at Calvin Klein, Fear of God and 69. Surreal imagery and advanced styling provide an ambitious attitude.

**2. Artful Classics:** Denim basics and workwear are fine-tuned in an artistic way.

“Designers such as Raf Simons at Calvin Klein, Y/Project’s Glenn Martens and Vetements’ Demna Gvasalia artfully update denim assortments with subverted design details and concept cuts that give classic items an edgier appeal. ” (WGSN)

Craftsmanship is key for tapping into the authenticity that discerning consumers crave.

**3. Humble Harvest:** A growing appreciation of the American West heralds the return of romantic country dressing.

**Benoit Trimborn-** http://www.benoit-trimborn.com

“California’s rolling landscapes and wheat fields inspire natural shades of off-white, while linen mixes and simple 1×1 weaves add to this rustic style.” (WGSN)

Craftsmanship is key, as younger consumers become infatuated with time-proven classics

**NOMA**– http://www.nomatextiledesign.com

**4. New Activists:** A new generation of outdoor activists and eco-conscious explorers is inspiring a fusion of festival-wear and outdoors style. This tribe sees its own well-being as connected to the planet’s.

“Embracing activism, they highlight environmental issues and literally wear their values, choosing eco-conscious performance-wear and sustainable materials.” (WGSN)

**Smokey Bear-** http://www.smokeybear.com

**5. Expressive Surface:** “The strong, spirited palette of this trend focuses on bold, unambiguous colors that capture a mood of protest.” (WGSN)

Garments are expressively customised with DIY spray-paint and hand-rendered effects. Artworks have a neo-expressionist style that nods to the work of Jean-Michel Basquiat.

**6. Technical Utility:** Manufacturing advancements blur the line between product categories, where lightweight layers blend shirts with jackets and outerwear.

Specialized treatments and utility details are as important as the items themselves.

**Project Jacquard-** http://www.stap.google.com/jacquard/

“Google’s Project Jacquard with Levi’s offers touch and gesture interactivity on denim, transforming trucker jackets with enhanced functionality.” (WGSN)

**7. Emotive Chroma**: The mood-altering power of color assumes new importance in this trend. Bold brights excite the senses and energize the body, while delicate and misty nature-inspired tones are calming.

**Shane Griffin**– http://www.shanegriffin.nyc

Intense contrasts emerge from unusual combinations of blues and zesty greens. Colors that were previously perceived as vulgar feel more sophisticated.

**Mark Mawson-** http://www.markmawson.com

**Palace**– http://www.palaceskateboards.com

**8. Disruptive Color:** Classic stripes are spliced in this story, and solid denim is interrupted with flashes of global craft patterns in striking tones.

**Vlone-** http://www.livevlonedievlone.com

“A refreshingly bold story is created with a mix of pure primaries, including Energy Yellow, Blue Cadet, Sky Azure, Indigo Ink, and touches of Riot Red for contrast.” (WGSN)

**Guy Catling-** http://www.flickr.com/photos/catters

“Google’s Project Jacquard with Levi’s offers touch and gesture interactivity on denim, transforming trucker jackets with enhanced functionality.” (WGSN)