For A/W 2018-19, this upcoming trend of Dark Wonder explores the influence of new technologies on fashion, it investigates our deep fascination with technology and designed experiences.
Augmented reality is opening the door to acceptance of more unusual aesthetics, and in a world where we can create our own identities, gender fluidity and individuality are embraced.
This is a trend that draws on themes of science fiction, escapism, and experimentation with the human form.
The Vision:
In 2019, we will surpass our human condition, accessing hyper-human states. We will harness the powers of data and artificial intelligence to transform our lives for the better, experiencing benefits, while investigating their darker sides.
Data and Artificial Intelligence are the new utilities. The boom has begun and not only with tech giants. The fashion industry has been using deep learning algorithms for personalized product recommendations.
Tapping into feelings of both fascination and fear we will experience sensations of the “digital sublime” as augmented reality and virtual reality will shake up reality as we know it, but will also provide moments of play, sensuality and delight.
Color Story:
Dark Wonder is driven by a growing overlap of virtual and real life, which results in a palette of drama and contrast.
This increasingly blurred line between virtual and real projects contrast is at the heart of the palette, with colors that range from cool to dark to neon and bright.
Contrast is at the heart of this palette, with colors that range from cool and dark to neon and bright. Tinted darks such as Galactic Green, Meteor Blue and Astro Plum create a deep and mysterious base, and versatile purples dominate the mid-tones. Lilac Opal and Mystic Violet both have a dual aspect, appearing either soft or luminous, depending on how they are paired. At the other end of the spectrum, hyper-saturated Atomic Cerise and searing Nuclear Yellow burst through twilight shades.
Dark Wonder is characterized by moody darks, unexpected mid-tones and jolting near-neons. Tinted faux blacks of Dark Teal and Red Shadow are chosen specifically to appeal to the US market and are perfect for partywear and Holiday season.
Seasonal Statements:
- Nuclear Yellow is a key bright: This almost-neon tone stands out against a palette of intriguing darks and works as a sophisticated bright beam of winter light for womenswear.
New production methods are allowing neon materials to be created safely, resulting in Nuclear Yellow, the perfect glowing accent for trims and accessories.
This unique yellow color can is created by applying new technology to dye methods. It is appropriate for activewear, or and an accent for linings, trims, leather and accessories.
This near neon tone maintains a sophisticated quality when mixed with soft and dark tones.
- Metallics appear for everyday wear: Metallics are essential for the party season, but for Dark Wonder, they are also dark and urban, and appropriate for daywear.
Molten bronze tones are luxurious. Burnt Bronze and its metallic equivalent have a luxurious and liquefied look, especially when used on supple and smooth surfaces.
Metallic afterglow appears as we move away from brash gold with these new metallics that come to the fore. Burnt Bronze and Titanium represent a new focus for the party season, and are also appropriate for everyday wear.
A focus on extreme results in interesting color clashes. When mixed with Nuclear Yellow and Burnt Bronze, the delicate tone of Lilac Opal becomes strange and other worldly.
****Neutrals, which normally calm the selections, enhance the sci-fi feeling of this story.
- Augmented Brights: The tone of Pixel Pink is skewed specifically for the US market, and has a warm, familiar quality as well as a hyper-saturated, glowing aspect. It is particularly relevant for partywear and embellishments aspect.
Classic colors focus on high contrast. Traditional red and blue are tweaked to become more intense, energetic and dynamic.
High contrast notes with the classic pairing of primary red and blue evolves this season. Cosmic Rouge specific to Europe, has a dynamic pink tone, while Magnetic Cobalt is graphic and clean. Together, these slightly off-killer tones have a striking effect.
- Molten Purples: Purples begin to gain greater importance over pinks, particularly for this altered-reality theme. Lilac Opal and Mystic Violet work in tandem to reflect this fusion of the real and virtual, and a metallic hue brings an opalescent gleam.
Versatile Purples reflect cityscapes, as these hues begin to overtake pinks in A/W 2018-19. In particular, the tone of Lilac Opal has a luminous quality that calls to mind gleaming, opalescent surfaces.
- Darks gain greater fashion relevance: The darker colors have a digital quality with this darker end of the palette features deep tones infused with tints of color, to create barely perceptible changes in hue.
Galactic Green and Meteor Blue provide a fresh perspective on darks, which have a faux-black quality. As core color continues to evolve, and classic navy tones emerge as fashion colors, these hues have plenty of relevance for both partywear and casualwear.
The darker hues feel exotic with the Dark Wonder’s palette of dark blue and purple tones feel rare and mysterious, along with an element of drama and fantasy.
Digital darks of Meteor Blue and the US- specific color additions of Dark Teal and Red Shadow have a tinted and slightly computerized quality. These tones appear like a glimpses of color energizing from the shadows, but still retain a strong, graphic look.
Digital darks of Meteor Blue and the US- specific color additions of Dark Teal and Red Shadow have a tinted and slightly computerized quality. These tones appear like a glimpses of color energizing from the shadows, but still retain a strong, graphic look.
Mystic Violet and Astro Plum are a powerful duo and steer darks away from black toward purplish hues.
This blend of rich solids and metallics creates a sense of luxury. Astro Plum and Meteor Blue provide a sophisticated base, and Atomic Cerise clashes with the fiery tone of Burnt Bronze.
Metallic Meteor Blue adds a shimmering finish, while Black adds refinement. Inky blue tones are essential in this story, offering a sense of opulence through liquefied sheen. Both metallics and solids blend with black, while Nuclear Yellow adds a searing silver of color for trims and linings. Metallic Burnt Bronze adds trims and linings.
Technology will change the future of physical identity. Some people will embrace advances such as snapchat filters; others will hide from facial recognition systems with digital masks.
Designs that excite all five senses will become a focus for products and spaces, as the experience economy grows. Augmented fashion and design is emerging as a key space to watch. Digital-only processes will pave the way for designs that are created and personalized virtually, defying traditional production times and leading to new directions for luxury.
Mass Influencers:
- TV TIME- West World: This new sci-fi western series is described as “a dark odyssey about the dawn of artificial consciousness.” With nearly 12 million views for the first two episodes, this is HBO’s next big hit.
- THE MAIN EVENT- The Void: The Void is the first dedicated virtual reality theme park. Expect new worlds, and new dimensions, as you’re physically and mentally plunged into a hyper-real environment. This is the future of entertainment, virtual reality style.
- FROM THE BOOKSHELF- Homo Deus: From post-human architecture to a post-human society, Homo Deus explores the future, and our next step of evolution, tackling dataism, Artificial Intelligence, and the authority of algorithms.
- THE ONE TO WATCH– Clement Balavoine: Watch out for Balavoine’s digital-only tailoring. Using 3D software and virtual models, he’s creating clothes with mouse clicks, and without physically touching any fabric.
Womenswear
Seasonal Statements:
- 1.) Encrusted surfaces are key: wardrobe staples are given an extreme makeover, with easy jackets and dresses updated with encrusted embellishment.
Encrusted surfaces feature layers of metallic sequins and miniature crystals on easy-wear items such as the shirt dress.
The overall look is futuristic and statement-making, but also remains commercial.
- 2.) Soft, tactile designs are important: designs are both cozy and luxurious with soft-touch surfaces. Rich colors are combined with quilted forms inspired by interior design.
This plush story focuses on luxury finishes. Rich silks have a soft touch, while opulent velvets offer a warmer texture.
Tonal dressing becomes bolder, with deep colors sitting alongside their brighter counterparts. Sleek tailored suits and midi-length dresses offer streamlined silhouettes. Furniture-style fringing ramps the look up, as seen at Loewe.
- 3.) Fetish looks are more sophisticated: fetish styles feel more intelligent and less overtly sexual, with long sleeves and high necks.
Lacing, strapping and metal hardware feature prominently, but the introduction of typography pushes the look away from an obvious fetish look. High necklines and long sleeves offer a more demure way to wear this look.
- 4.) Luxury has a dark baroque quality: sumptuous jacquards, brocades and devoré fabrics feature metallic fibers and create a pieced-together look that celebrates opulence. Luxury dressing is a key focus in this trend.
This story takes notes from Instagram star Johannes J. Jaruraak and challenges mainstream perceptions of beauty.
Menswear
Dark Wonder sees sportswear become more extreme and over-sized, and subcultural references inform a new sense of utility. A futuristic dystopian uniform emerges for those who seek style as a means to deviate from the norm, and under the cover of night or the dimness of a club, luxurious fabrics and high-shine outerwear offer glimmers of light.
Seasonal Statements:
- 1.) Streetwear becomes stealthy: a focus on new material structures and textures informs a modular sportswear attitude. Hyper-engineered knitwear leans towards futurism and a technical smartness
Articulated seams, action-back details and ergonomically pleated fabrics blend the best of active, functional and casualwear.
Heat treatments and sculptural effects reference subcultures and have a dystopian ‘cosplay’ attitude. Workwear staples are updated with a futuristic, otherworldly sensibility.
- 2.) Utility feels more gothic: utility styles reference obscure subcultures and 1990’s designers such as Helmut Lang and Raf Simons. Bondage influences mix pragmatic military looks with a desire to shock through design details.
Grommets, buckles and lace accents hint at fetish culture, mixed with military wearability. An austere palette reinforces a sense of restraint wearability. An austere palette reinforces a sense of restraint.
Nightlife meets utility, as club culture is refined with an interplay of matte and sheen, washed and unwashed surfaces, as well as heavily detailed and trimmed pieces.
- 3.) An anti-normcore sentiment emerges: unexpected hybrid items cultivate desire in a market dominated by essentials. Clothes that feel special become an extreme want, instead of a gap-fulfilling need.
The upscale style of occasional dressing seeps into the everyday casual uniform.
Embellishments and jewel tones give statement pieces a new richness.
- 4.) Luxury is more extreme: divergence from mainstream ideas of formal and aspirational dress leads to an embrace of the unusual and opulent. Unpredictable clothes cater to capricious, discerning consumers.
Intricate and delicate patterns evolve with a toughened edge.
Embellished biker jackets are updated with an ornate look inspired by tattoo designs, Eastern art, and human anatomy. Fluid, draping fabrics are styled with heavy sweats and stiff leathers, and multi-layered to create an alternative sense of aspiration.
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