In an era of Denim Renaissance, the current market moves beyond the one-at-a-time trend pacing. The fabric of our lives coincides with the climate of our zeitgeist’s time of earth workers and the cal of innovation without extravagance. Denim speaks of equality among all classes, as the material collectively pulls us in unity as humans, and not just the working class. Denim classics are revisited with an artistic touch and an emotional feel; which could otherwise open up new dialogues on how materials can calm and soothe or stimulate and energize through the use of it’s color and texture.
The fabrication of denim will work as a catapult for the expression tend that is driven by the urge to stand out and make an impact in an increasingly politicized world. Designers and makers will continue to push creativity and exploration of new processes, along with alternative materials.
Ongoing into the year 2020, a theme of a expressive youthful trend offers a mash-up mix on global subcultures. It sees a new wave of design that breaks the rules of traditional denim codes, with a strong focus on play, creativity, dressing up, and radical self-expression. Denim will prize designs with meaning and authenticity, focusing on sustainability and living better, rather than bigger. Craft, quality and storytelling drive a new focus on transparent production, and a stronger appetite for responsible consumption.
Seasonal Statements:
- SMARTENING UP IS EMPOWERING- A re-balance of smart and casual design will inform the season with a sense of control from consumers that are seeking empowerment that comes from smartening up.
Amid political climate and economic uncertainty, consumers seek comfort in the sense of control and empowerment, as we smarten up.
The relevance of sartorial staples for day-wear will be renewed and tap into a thirst for alternative tailoring among the Millennials.
Statement-making items channel the strength and power of sexuality.
2. NATURE IS HARNESSED FOR AESTHETICS AND WELL-BEING- Natural dyes are used not only to color, but also for the effect they have on well-being. Biological theme crafting uses vegetable and plant dyes, which are gaining popularity, and goes one step further by putting plants under the microscope to inspire new shapes.
BACTERIAL FORMS INSPIRE BATIK PATTERNS.
Other brands play with natural dye stuffs such as ochre, madder, avocado and walnut, as well as buttons crafted from recycled nut.
3. PLAY WILL ADD MEANING TO PRODUCTS- From irony to surrealism to straightforward joy, the pleasure of play will inspire a broad spectrum of creativity that will engage and excite consumers.
The theme will have a new type of uniform emerge that is utility-inspired but decidedly non-military in presentation. Standard-issue styles get a streetwear update with exaggerated pockets, functional straps, and anti-fit silhouette. Utility greens are juxtaposed in paired Oranges and washed blues in a color story that keeps this aesthetic grounded.
Autumn/Winter 2019-20 Seasonal Statements:
- SUSTAINABLE THINKING WILL DRIVE A NEW ERA OF DESIGN: Being more resourceful has never been so important, so brands should take advantage of deadstock fabrics and up-cycling opportunities.
Rethink waste in out-of-season deadstock, overproduction and waste are some of the fashion industry’s worst excesses.
Deadstock in the U.S alone amounts to $500 billion every year. Recycling will become more creative and ambitious in scale, as designers and companies work towards transforming the abundance of everyday post-industrial and consumer waste into innovative materials and products.
2. A NEW ERA OF FUNCTIONAL DESIGN EMERGES: Everyday clothing in this trend has one goal: To improve everyday life. Smart designs have dual-function and place purpose on par with beauty.
Outdoor essentials influenced theme for A/W 19-20 explores designs with a sense integrity and timelessness, with a focus on living better, rather than bigger. Wardrobe essentials such as workwear and utility styles offer a sense of comfort and familiarity, and new materials, finishes, and detailing are used to add sophistication.
CANVAS IS IMPORTANT TO MEN, AND LOOKS NEWEST IN MATTE-FINISHED HUES.
3. SUCCESSFUL BRANDS THINK OUTSIDE THE BOX: Subversive and unexpected products and activations resonate with consumers searching for something unique and fresh.
Break the rules is a theme inspired by the deconstructed designs of thought leaders such as Martin Margiela and Helmut Lang to break the status quo and inspire a new wave of denim design.
References are used to feed imagination- not copy and provide inspiration for designs that feel totally new. Consider details such as detached waistbands, seam manipulation, and unexpected layering which break the rules of traditional denim design.
Key Items:
DECORATIVE HARDWARE- The trend for exposed hardware shows no sign of slowing, moving belt buckle details into playful decorative territory as opposed to functional. Buckles along side-seams on jeans and jackets in perfectly aligned rows for bold directional looks. Despite going against practical function use, the idea of this theme is to project an extreme form of self-expression of future geometric and utilitarian spirit.
ENLARGE CARGO POCKETS FOR DIRECTIONAL WORKWEAR OPTIONS: Bigger is better when it comes to updating cargo pocket styles on denim this season. Three-dimensional pockets tap into bold Y2K looks when placed on wide-leg trousers and oversized thrift-style jackets.
Additional ways to update cargo-style pockets are by enlarging the flaps of pockets, buttons, and buttonhole closures. Look into new pocket closures, such as enlarged eyelet hardware spotted at House of Holland.
1980s ACID/DECORATIVE BLEACHED- Acid-wash looks with darker contrast or base levels are offered in a variety of hues to make a major impact on denim trends between seasons some looks are created with a nod to overdying.
This trend for 80s acidd wash and bleach finishes shows no sign of slowing for S/S19 onto 2020. Companies have chosen to opt for sustainable finishing techniques like ozone and laser opposed to enzyme.
The use of bleach or hypo in denim is often seen as one of the worst aspects of garment finishing. The effect of such harmful chemicals on factory workers has decreased their life expectancy, all in effort to provide the masses with these signature looks. We’ve moved beyond the need for harsh chemicals and have found the aesthetic an also be achieved through the use of laser and digital printing.
Key Items A/W 2019-20:
PAINTED- Painting or doodling on denim is nothing new, however, the ways we achieve this look have evolved. Brands are creating the style in fabric form through digital printing. Made to appear less engineered, these designs embrace a DIY sensibility. As Millennials and Gen Zs prize individual style, these trends will continue and are set to evolve further.
STAGGERED HEM- Staggered hems create a worn-in look which has evolved to be more decorative. Applied to jackets and bottoms, the look is achieved through fresh decorative cuts applied after processing for a clean finish, and after processing for more swollen frayed hemlines. Secure clean frays with tone-on-tone stitching to ensure fraying does not continue after purchase.
DUO TONE- Duo tone or two-tone looks add a level of contrast reminiscent of the 1970’s club scene. Often associated with upcycling or recycling, these looks are achieved in a variety of ways.
Some brands opt for laser- this is one of the most sustainable methods, but the final look mimics the natural method, which calls for stitching together of individual panels.
DENIM FABRIC Trending:
- Core denim fabrics are updated with essential elements: High recovery stretch- comfort stretch and robust rigidity are key factors in focus for A/W 19-20.
- Recycled Denim: Brands look to reduce their carbon footprint by taking advantage of deadstock fabrics sitting idle at garment makers and fabrics mills.
Using these fabrics to create upcycled trends has been made easier as forward-thinking mills that are eager to rid themselves of slow-or non-moving products pass these fabrics on to innovate brands, giving new life to leftover or disregarded materials.
the clementina project 